From genetics to stress myths, researchers reveal what really drives greying and the breakthroughs pointing to natural colour restoration
Grey hair is more than a cosmetic concern – it drives a booming industry, influences how people are perceived, and can affect confidence. Globally, the hair colour market was valued at nearly USD 28 billion in 2025, with over half of purchases linked specifically to concealing greys. In South Africa, spending on hair colourants is projected to grow from roughly USD 172 million in 2021 to over USD 228 million by 2028, highlighting the demand for solutions that go beyond temporary cover-ups.
By age 50, roughly 50-70% of adults have visible grey hair, while premature greying can appear in some as early as the 20s. The psychological weight is clear: studies indicate grey hair can make people appear 20-30% older, influencing workplace perception, social interactions, and self-esteem. Studies show faces with grey hair are consistently perceived as more subdued than the same faces without greys, confirming that hair colour alone can shape social impressions.
“Many popular beliefs about greying hair are misleading,” says Dr Kashmal Kalan, Medical Director at Alvi Armani. “Stress does not turn hair grey overnight, plucking one strand won’t trigger several more, and no supplement or home remedy has been proven to restore pigment reliably. The reality is far more biological – genetics and pigment cell behaviour are the keys we are finally beginning to understand.”
At the heart of greying are melanocyte stem cells (McSCs) within hair follicles. In youth, these cells migrate and maintain melanin production, the pigment responsible for hair colour. With age, many become inactive or “trapped,” interrupting pigment delivery and causing grey strands. In mouse models, freeing these cells restored pigment production in roughly half of cases – a major step toward therapies that could reawaken natural colour without dyes.
Emerging research aims to tackle the root cause rather than just the appearance of grey hair. Scientists are exploring topical agents that target dormant pigment cells, metabolic modulators that influence follicle behaviour, and activation therapies designed to revive pigment production. These innovations could allow hair to regain its natural shade – not just cover it – while supporting overall follicle health.
“We are witnessing science that was once purely theoretical become reality,” says Dr Sunaina Paima, aesthetic and hair-restoration physician at Alvi Armani Johannesburg. “For patients, this could mean seeing grey strands regain their original shade naturally – a moment the hair science world has long dreamed of. The potential impact on confidence and self-esteem is enormous, because this isn’t just about covering colour, it’s about restoring it at a biological level.”
While most pigment-restoring therapies remain in development, advances in genetics, dermatology, and biotechnology are converging at unprecedented speed. “For decades, grey hair was seen as an irreversible hallmark of ageing,” adds Dr Kalan. “Today, that assumption is being seriously challenged. We’re on the brink of options that rejuvenate hair from the inside out, not just cosmetically.”
These breakthroughs signal a new era in hair science: ageing hair may no longer be inevitable or purely cosmetic, but a biological process that can be understood, guided, and ultimately restored.
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